Day 18

​Castrojeriz to Frómista

We left our hotel in Castrojeriz at 7:00 am, and after about 15 minutes, we began to gain elevation. There is a hill right outside the village and the Camino goes right up it. The incline didn’t last very long and since it was still dark out, the temperature was cool. There were a bunch of people at the top of the hill waiting for the sun to rise. We decided to continue forward so that we weren’t walking with the pack once the sun rose.

That which goes up must come down, so we had a steep decline and the trail transitioned to wheat fields. Since our stay in Logrono, we have walked through a lot of wheat fields. Because they have been harvested, they just looked just like dry grass.  After a while we came across a pretty river lined with trees, and there was a stone bridge we crossed to continue the Camino. After the bridge we entered a village called Itero del la Vega. We had breakfast, but it was a little dicey. Our eggs were served with some strange meat that resembled Canadian bacon but had this orange stuff on the outside, and it tasted like it had been pickled. It was no bueno.

We came across another small town called Boadilla. Because it’s Sunday we saw lots of people leaving mass at a smaller stone cathedral, and as we passed them they wished us a “Buen Camino.” I have not talked much about this common greeting. Pilgrims say it to each other on the Camino and locals say it to us as we pass them. It essentially means, “good journey.” I’ve done some reflecting on this, and it reminds me of something Rick Steves said when we saw him in San Francisco a couple of years ago. He mentioned that often we will say to a friend, “safe travels.” He mentioned that implies there is some fear or danger that one must circumvent when traveling. He prefers positive statements like, “have an amazing trip.” During these times I think it is completely appropriate to wish someone “safe travels,” but I do love the meaning behind the common greeting here: “Buen Camino.”

As it was getting warm, we were pleased that the Camino became tree lined as we walked in the shade along the Canal de Castilla. After walking this for about a mile, we came across what used to be locks that allowed boats to navigate deep into the Meseta, the area of Spain through which we have recently been walking. Within ten minutes we were in a our final destination for the day, Frómista. 

And now we are checked into our hotel, we had some lunch, and lucky for us our new Canadian friend is staying in the same hotel. Jim just went off to purchase some wine, and we are about to hang out on the patio and share tall tales (and maybe talk some politics).

Tomorrow we head to Carrion de Los Condes.